Applique with the Embroidery Machine
OESD lightweight tear away stabilizer or lightweight stabilizer of your choice.
40 weight embroidery thread for the needle
60 weight cotton thread for the bobbin
Schmetz Gold size 75 embroidery needles
505 spray adhesive
Pre-wash and iron all fabrics. If you are concerned about show through on the appliques, fuse an iron on interfacing to the wrong side of the fabrics to be used for the appliques.
Cut two layers of stabilizer larger than the hoop you are using for your design.
Spray one side of one of the pieces, place the second layer on top and smooth the two layers together.
Spray the top of the two layers with 505. Position the inner ring on the hoop on top of the sprayed side of the stabilizer and press down firmly.
Insert Inner ring with stabilizer inside outer ring of hoop and tighten screw to securely hold the stabilizer. No fabric is loaded in the hoop.
Place the fabric for the background over the hoop and smooth in place. No wrinkles please.
Basting Fabric in Hoop
I have included a basting stitch in most of my designs.
The first stitch of the design will be a basting stitch to secure the fabric to the stabilizer and hold it in place. The basting stitch is shown in the stitch file as black, but use the thread color of your choice as it will be removed later.
Stitching the Applique
My appliques will stitch out in 4 steps.
Step 1. Placement Line. This stitch is primarily to show you where on the background fabric the applique will be stitched and where you should place the applique fabric. No applique fabric is in place during the stitching of the placement line. After the placement line has been stitched, use a glue stick and apply some glue within the placement lines to hold the applique fabric. Be sure to keep the glue within the placement lines.
Step 2. Position the applique fabric square over the placement line and smooth into place. Make sure the square is large enough to cover the stitching of the placement line. Stitch the tack down stitch. I prefer to use a very small zig zag for my tacking stitch.
Step 3. Remove the hoop from the machine, but do not remove the fabric from the hoop. We are going to trim away the excess fabric from around the stitching of the tack down stitch. Place the hooped fabric on a flat surface to prevent loosening the fabric in the hoop.
My favorite scissors for trimming are Gingher 6 inch double curved embroidery scissors. You will find that these scissors are excellent for trimming extremely close to the stitching. It is important that no fabric is left extending beyond the tack down stitch. Leaving excess fabric will result in fabric eye lashes after the satin stitch is applied. Don't worry if you clip the outside of the zig zag, the inside stitch of the zig zag will still hold the fabric. Notice also how I use only the end of the scissor tips for trimming.
Step 4. Place the hoop back on the machine after trimming. The next stitching line will be the pretty satin stitch to cover the raw fabric edges.
Each applique part will be stitched to completion before the next applique is applied. I have found in teaching classes that students respond better with less confusion if each part of the applique is completed before moving to the next part.
After one part is completed and the satin stitch is applied, the machine will move to the next part to be appliqued, stitch the placement line, stop for fabric placement, stitch the tack down stitch, stop for trimming then stitch the satin stitch and so on.
Any embroidered highlights are added after the appliques are stitched. Refer to your PDF Stitch Out files for more help. I provide one with each design download.
Have fun and happy stitching.